Tigers like Bacon and Eggs

This past weekend I made my way through the notorious traffic jams of Bangkok into Chinatown. I had been invited by a new friend to make merit for the Chinese New Year. Superstitious beliefs and customs are prominent in Thai culture. Thus, when I found out that as a Dragon (Chinese zodiac), I would be having a year of obstacles—I figured I should do as the Thais do and make merit. Making merit is a way of life for most Thai people.

My Thai friend Pook seemed to have all the answers. She had alerted me about the prediction and told me that making merit at some specific temples would help me out in the long run. Her grandmother has kept a watchful eye on the Chinese Zodiac and had advice on how to gather good fortune and prosperity for the New Year. Pook was happy to pass along her advice and volunteered to show me the ropes.

My images don’t showcase the density of the crowded temples. When we arrived we bought our merit making supplies; a tray filled of oranges, gold folded papers, cookies, candles and incense. Following the crowd, I dropped off the majority of the items on the tray and held onto the candles and incense. A long line of people gathered around tables hosting small flower shaped candles to light their incense. Upon lighting their large handful of incense, the incense sticks were hoisted into the air. Due to the masses of people the outdoor air was already heavy with smoke. My eyes started to burn. Trying to keep up with Pook, we walked around the temple site where there were various tall urns that we had to place incense in. Separating three sticks from the bunch at each urn, I was shocked at the quick temple staff that gathered and discarded the sticks as soon as they were planted in the sand—making room for the other practitioners. The whole process was quite hurried due to the throngs of people pushing their way around but also because of how uncomfortable the smoke made us feel.   

                            

           

           Outside of the temple was line of people that went down an entire city block. In front of the temple were two Chinese lion statues. I watched as people slid colorful baht bills through the lions’ open mouth—in and out a few times. Pook told me they were doing this in hopes that when they spent the money, it would return into their pockets. I photographed a couple of teenagers who had their hearts set on a bigger fortune. Some teenagers pushed their whole wallets into the tiger’s mouth, stubbornly squashing their wallets into the stone mouth and yanking them out.

We made our way to a second temple in Yaowarat (the Thai name for Chinatown). This visit was to make an offering and pay our respects to the Tiger guardian. I shelled out some more baht for a second tray of offerings at an outdoor stand. I received a tray similar to the first with a new addition of two eggs and a fat slice of bacon. Pook’s grandmother had recommended us to ask one of the merchants to accompany us inside and show us how to properly do the ritual. The vendor guided us inside the temple. Once again, I found myself squeezing through a large crowd. My guide pulled many of the items off the tray and directed me where to place the various offerings. All the sudden, I found myself holding the tray with just the two eggs and the slab of bacon. The guide was animatedly motioning for me to do the universal offering pose. Lifting the small tray upwards and ducking my head in prayer, I laughed internally at the situation. I guess tigers like bacon and eggs. I was then directed to hand over my tray to some temple staff that would see to it that my offering was given to the Tiger guardian.

The guide produced a small piece of newsprint paper. There was a small paragraph printed in Thai. I could make out the blanks that dictated the insertion of my name and birthday. The guide read the piece of paper and encouraged me to repeat the reading. It was a short prayer requesting the tiger guardian to bestow me with good fortune and prosperity. I was then instructed to take the piece of newsprint and tuck it into the golden paper and brush it across my body—head to foot—thirteen times. I began the task and found myself smiling shyly to another girl who was doing her thirteen paper sweeps. She gave me a smile of encouragement and when I finished, I was hurried over to a fire pit and directed to give the papers to temple staff to burn. Now, I would be free of all the bad stuff once the paper was incinerated. I participated in the traditional candle and incense lighting activity I jut described and was then I was told to evenly pour the cooking oil into four lotus shaped oil lamps.

Unfortunately, they did not allow me to photograph the happenings within the temple. It was quite an experience and I’m glad that I have now warded off any bad stuff in this upcoming year. Happy Chinese New Year to all!